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Hiking in Peru
Back in the '80s, while backpacking across Asia, I stumbled upon tales of the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu. It seemed like the adventure of a lifetime, yet somehow, life kept getting in the way, and the idea was shelved. Years later, a travel show rekindled that old desire, and I promised myself I’d make the journey post-retirement.
Then, unexpectedly, my daughter Ida expressed her interest in joining me. Initially, I figured we’d wait until I retired, but a conversation with my sister changed everything. She wondered, "Why not do it now when your body's still strong?" Soon after, we found a company organising treks to Machu Picchu. Ida was immediately in, and before we knew it, we were booked for the journey. The mountains awaited us, and I couldn’t wait to experience them with my daughter.
Training and equipment
Once the trip was booked, preparations began in earnest. The organisers sent us an equipment list and a training schedule. We had to buy a lot of equipment, and one of the first things we purchased was hiking boots, which we used every time we went for a walk.
The training schedule was organised over 27 weeks with four sessions per week. It included 30-120 minutes long hill workouts with 5-10 kg in the backpack, cardio and strength sessions. Regardless of the weather, we followed the plan, even in rain and snowstorms. It was a good way to test the equipment. Since Ida was travelling in Asia and South America, I had to do a lot of the training by myself. There were many lonely walks up and down the same hill in the rain and dark, but I had a headlamp and good audiobooks to keep me company. In total I walked over 7200 height metres.
Preparations around Cusco
I arrived in Cusco, Peru, four days before the trek started to get used to the 3200-metre altitude. It was wonderful to see my daughter Ida again after three months. We took it easy the first day to adjust to the high elevation. The following day, we went to Soraypampa to hike up to Humantay Lake, a glacial lake at 4250 metres above sea level. The hike was strenuous, but the valley and lake views were amazing.
Our third day took us to the Rainbow Mountains. The journey there was beautiful, with high mountains, terrace farms, stray llamas and alpacas. As we ascended, it started in rain, which turned into hail and ended in snow. At the summit, 5036 metres above sea level, everything was shrouded in fog. The skies eventually cleared, and we could see the colourful mountain in all its glory.
Hiking along the Inca Trail
Our trek along the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu would take eight days, while most people do it in 3 to 5 days. En route to the trailhead, we stopped at Maras, where salt has been mined for over a thousand years. We also visited Moray, where the Inca people conducted agricultural studies.
On the first day, we hiked from Huayopata to Vitcos, the historic last town of the Incas. Our group included 15 Swedes, three guides, and 15 locals who managed 20 horses, prepared our meals, and set up camp. We trekked 3,000 to 4,500 meters above sea level, navigating through stark yet stunning terrains. At the Puma Pass, 4500 metres above sea level, the altitude was challenging for some in the group, but thanks to preparatory training and previous high-altitude day hikes, we managed without much effort and could enjoy the views.
As we descended, the landscape transformed, becoming greener and warmer. Our path wound through vibrant rainforests with coffee plants, banana trees, and citrus and avocado groves. These trails, once tread by the Incas to transport goods, were steeped in history. Our guide, Yennry, who grew up in Huayopata, introduced us to local landowners who gave us access to their land. Over eight days, we covered 100 kilometres in roughly 50 hours of hiking.
Machu Picchu
After seven days of trekking, we finally reached Machu Picchu. The morning fog was thick, blanketing the area and obscuring our view, which stirred a bit of nervousness among us. But our guides were calm and confident, and sure enough, after a while, the fog lifted, and we could see the ancient city emerge. The long hike was worth it, and we got to experience Machu Picchu in all its glory.
